I'm on HDR-HCR, quick question:

I'm shooting a model in controlled environment. I'd like to get a default setting going for exposure -- as I set up my lights in more or less same fashion.

Generally, the auto exposure looks great on LCD, but is a bit dark on a computer monitor. If I push up one or two times with manual exposure it is improved. Only thing is, the exposure bar has no numbers or anything! It seems there is no measurement there at all. Am I missing it? any ideas? thanks.

Let's see... the "R" key is closest to the "5", so I'm assuming you have an HC5. And you're right, there's no real numbers visible on the exposure indicators on the LCD and there's no real way to get them. So if you find the auto exposure is constantly over or under where you like it, you can set the AE SHIFT one or two notches higher or lower so it will always compensate for you.

Neither the cam's LCD nor a computer monitor are good tools for judging exposure. You should connect direct to a well-calibrated TV via HDMI to get a true picture of what you're shooting -- or more appropriately, what you've shot as this isn't practical while shooting, only after.

thanks AC, bit scared to do a permanent auto exposure compensation, because what if occasions occur where the auto exposure is not right? then it's even worse.

Now conventional wisdom is a monitor TV, but my final output is first and formost the web, then maybe DVD, later, so shouldn't I judge by my monitor then? that what my editor suggested.

Also:
what about Zebra patterns. For still photography, they are great -- actually it's just blinking highlights for my Canon 5D camera.

I have HDR-HC3, the manual says zebra is for adjusting the brightness, are they referring to what we are talking here, using manual exposure?
How useful and accurate is zebra for making sure a person is not blown out? thanks

Zebra is the perfect tool for what you need. Set it to 100 and then dial down the exposure until the stripes disappear.

Page 72 of your manual shows how to set the CAMERA CTRL dial by the lens to do exposure rather than focus (the default). Then all you'd have to do is push the MANUAL button and turn the wheel whenever you want to adjust the exposure, without having to go into the LCD menus.

But to be honest with you, the best, most reliable pictures I get off my HC3s (I have two of 'em) is when I just push the EASY button and shoot away.

The only time the cam gets fooled is if someone is backlit or spotlit, and you can compensate for either of those situations through either the BACKLIGHT button or the SPOTLIGHT setting in PROGRAM AE.

thanks AC
that camera controal dial, wouldn't be afraid that you might accidentally scoll it during the shoot? can you lock it?

Now zebra, what is that 70 setting all about?

And why do I see two sets of stripes? I see grey stripes and then elsewhere redddish stripes.

Auto exposure looks great outdoors on travel trips.

But now I'm doing indoor lighting of talking heads against white abackground. And auto look 1-2 stops dark.

I don't mind the background blowing out; I want the face as bright as possible without blowing out.

You think if I set zebras on and dial to max (seeing zebras on face), and then dial the zebras off the face, that will be great exposure? not to dark, not too hot? it's that accurate?

Yes, the button right next to the scroll wheel turns it on or off. When it's off nothing you can do to it will let you change anything.Ah, now I get it. The easiest thing to do is just touch the BACKLIGHT button on the side of the cam and it'll fix it for you. Or use the SNOW setting in the PROGRAM AE menu.

Backlight, Snow, what are these? never heard of them. Snow? isn't that an amateur setting?

Are you saying forget zebras and manual exposure then? thanks AC

still curious on zebra: 70 vs 100 and 2 colored patterns

Page 52. It's called "SNOW" on some cams and "BEACH & SKI" on this one.

BACKLIGHT is right on the left side of the cam next to the EASY button. Page 33.

Nothing wrong with amateur settings. It's an amateur cam, and there's no shame in that.

Try these and if they work for you it sure seems easier than mucking about with manual exposure and zebras all the time.

But now you have a plan "B".

My understanding is that 70 IRE is the best skintone value and over 100 means it's blown out. Pick whatever works for you.

Only by trying out all the different settings can you find out how much this little baby can do.

thanks AC: thanks for being patient with these detailed questions.

What do snow and backlight modes accomplish exactly?

back to zebras, have you noticed 2 colors to them?

Again, I did not see an off button near the camera control wheel.

What about caving in and getting a pro field monitor? Can one do that with the HDR-HCR?

Still if my main output is for web, isn't it best to judge ultimately on my computer monitor and not a traditional field monitor?

Could I even have a cord long enough to go from one room into computer room? ( at 25 to 30 feet) thanks.

They open up the exposure by a stop or two to lighten up the foreground and blow out the white highlights.I haven't but I don't use them that much. Embarrassingly, the best exposures I get from my HC3s are when I leave them on EASY. Trust me, it's there, about 1/16th inch to the aft of the actual wheel. You spin the forward part and push the rearward part.You mean HC3, yes? Sure, you certainly could, only because the LCD screen is not calibrated in a way that reliably tells you what your exposure is.I suppose.Sure. Check B&H.

Thanks AC, I do see a button on side of camera control that could press in and out. Wonder if thats it.

Do you know how one monitors live? ie shooting at a person , and then seeing how it looks live on computer?

Right now I'm just capturing into FCP HD Express, but it's not live in real time.

Wonderng what procedure for that is. thanks!

If you just want to monitor live you can use any of the output jacks, I think, depending upon your monitor, with HDMI being best.

To actually capture live to disc, I think you either need an HDMI capture card or you might be able to do it via firewire with a utility like Adobe OnLocation... but I don't think that's for the Mac.