I pulled the trigger on this purchase Thursday, more than a year after its introduction, after the hype and hysteria. I did the due diligence research and comparisons. I carefully evaluated the three chip alternatives to be certain I could accept the 1 chip HDV. I got a good deal from an authorized brick and mortar, and took it home.

The packaging was compact, and stuffed inside a bewildering assortment of cables and accessories.

The camera at 3.3 lbs is solid, well constructed and robust. It's nicely balanced, particularly welcome when picking it up by the handle with a tripod attached.

Hitherto most of the comments and observations I read about the HD1 are generally valid, except from time to time I noted some confusion about DV video and mpeg compression, leading to misunderstanding or false expectations.

Like other enthusiasts, I want a gorgeous picture on my HDTV monitor from my camcorder recordings. So it's understood that to get that, one must accept the notion of directly connecting the camera to the HDTV monitor for the best quality playback, and/or archive with a DVHS tape machine.

But what about how best to archive to DVD for sharing memories with others? There are lots of possibilities and methods.

- With the iLink 1394 EEE cable, you can download DV in the conventional sense, edit, author and burn on the PC or Mac.

- You can also use the iLink to download mpeg2 video using the supplied PC capture utility, editing and authoring bundle. I am happy to report that I had no difficulty at all with this, after expecting the worst from mixed reports. It's basic, and if lacking for the professional still includes what you need as a hobbyist.

- And of course, you can export down-converted content to a standalone DVD recorder via the S-Video output of the GR-HD1. This method yields consistently good results, since encoding mpeg at the highest quality using PC based software can take lots of time.

What's the best method then for archiving content from the GR-HD1 to DVD disk? Answering that took a lot of experimentation, and highlighted some unexpected problems. Contrary to some reports, the biggest hinderance to quality when recording down-converted content is not the lack of 3 CCD imager, unsaturated colors, or exposure latitude. The GR-HD1, while not the best in those regards, suffers worse from "moire" artifacts on down-converted video with any of the above methods. The moire appears as flittering, shimmering, strobing patterns. The moire artifacts do not affect the native HD (720p) or SD (480p) video ported to the YCbCr component output. It also is not present in the individual still-images that comprise a down-converted motion video. It results from aliasing in the image-to-image bit-shifts of the group of pictures comprising a motion video. It is worst on down-converted HD 720p 30 fps mpeg2 transfer streams, either ported to S-Video output, or mpeg2 TS stream captured to PC by the iLink. Again, examination of an individual frame presents no moire, until the group of pictures is set into motion.

There's not much that can help, but I present these guidelines to make the best of it.

- For 16x9 anamorphic video, the bit rates of the GR-HD1 are about the same for uncompressed DV (480i 30 fps) or mpeg2 compressed SD (480p 60 fps). Both formats make use of the same number of pixels from the CCD imager. If you are targeting your video for transfer to DVD format, it thusly is of no benefit to shoot compressed mpeg2 (SD) at 60 fps that must undergo a transformation to 480i 30 fps NTSC, and involves re-interlacing the otherwise native progressive. Accordingly, it is more appropriate that video targeted for transfer to DVD format originate from native DV, which is already 480i interlaced, uncompressed, and generally seems to exhibit slightly better color saturation than the GR-HD1 SD (480p 60 fps), whose benefit over DV resides in 60 fps progressive playback via the YCbCr component output to the appropriate HDTV monitor, and benefit of which is otherwise abandoned in the down-conversion to DVD NTSC 480i video.

- A work-around for mpeg2 (SD or HD) moire problem for captures to PC via the iLink exists for users who edit their mpeg2 transfer streams with Womble MPEG Video Wizard, which sets the 2:2 cadence flag for 30fps progressive video. Once set, the target DVD player switches to video mode, and the moire is abated. One problem with that approach, is that only about 40% of DVD players properly recognize the 2:2 cadence flag, or require user intervention to set the correct video mode.

- The DV format is 480i 30 fps uncompressed, making it a more natural transfer to NTSC 480i DVD mpeg2 video. But DV still must undergo transformation to mpeg2. In practice if not in theory, the encode to mpeg2 process invokes as much compromise as does the analog to digital conversion using the infinitely faster and more simple process of just using a standalone DVD recorder to copy the output from the S-Video output of the GR-HD1. That method works equally well for DV or SD, while the aforementioned subtle color saturation benefit of the DV format remains.

- Color saturation and accuracy seems best of all (as you would expect) when shooting video in HD (720p 30fps progressive). And the color saturation benefit carries over to video exported to DVD via S-Video, or the iLink mpeg2 transfer stream thereafter down-converted and 2:2 cadenced by Womble MPEG Video Wizard.

- Moire patterns are worst on down-converted HD 30 fps progressive video. That said, the image quality can be the best of the bunch, or the worst, depending greatly on technique. For example, motion greatly exacerbates the moire problem. For this reason, and the slower 30 fps frame rate, video shot in HD with the intention for final transfer to DVD video SHOULD BE SHOT WITH A TRIPOD!

- None of the moire problems are apparent on the YCbCr component output connected directly to HDTV monitor. For this circumstance, you are enjoying the BEST eye popping resolution currently available in consumer video. While you'll not mistake it for video shot for HDNet on 1080i cameras, you'll have the WOW factor working on your friends and family for videos played on your HDTV monitor.

You can achieve nirvana on this camcorder like no other, if you target the recording mode for the expected output device.

- For personal use, shoot in HD 720p, capture with iLink to your PC, edit with Womble, and export to DV mini-cassette with no loss in quality. Note: Mpeg is a lossy format. You lose some quality when recording to it due to compression. You lose none of it with the case of the GR-HD1, because you have no other HD alternative. That said, and the misunderstanding in part, you DO NOT lose quality by making linear edits (cuts & joins) to mpeg2 transfer streams with Womble that are stream copied....NOT re-encoded. You should be able to freely copy from camcorder to PC an mpeg video stream, without degradation, and no moire concerns.

- For targeting your video to DVD, shoot in HD (720p 30fps) mode IF you use a tripod, and/or are shooting nature videography. Moire patterns are manifest with geometric shapes and reflections, such as an urban parking lot, and not generally apparent in the random shapes that comprise the typical nature shoot.

- For targeting your video to DVD, shoot in 16x9 DV mode for all other situations that will not include playback from the camcorder itself, since DV does not playback from the superior YCbCr port of the GR-HD1. DV in 16x9 on the GR-HD1 uses the full width of the CCD imager, and is thus true 16x9 native anamorphic, not stretched. The quality is very high for 16x9, if not 4x3. Additionally, DV format is un-compressed, maintaining the best color saturation and minimal artifacts.

- You'll also get excellent results shooting SD (480p 60fps progressive), that plays back with stunning clarity when the DV mini-cassette plays in a GR-HD1 connected to HDTV monitor via the YCbCr component connector. You lose the 60fps benefit when making a DVD, and aside from slightly less saturated colors than DV, othewise makes an excellent source for DVD transfers.

Have you tried using Vegas 5 yet?

I believe it has a capture utility for the HD1/10 built in, so native m2t's are directly editable without conversion, and the added bonus is the Mainconcept MPEG2 encoder contains the most complete array of HD, SD, DV, DVD, SVCD & CD templates (all customisable - of course!!) in a NLE I've seen to date....

It can also output edited m2t directly back to the cam as well.....

Combined with DVD Architect; it's DVD creation stablemate, Vegas is the best piece of HDV capable software I've encountered.

While Womble is a capable piece of software in handling the video streams from SD DV & Broadcast HD, it is really more of a de-plexer/multi-plexer, stream & GOP error corrector, as well as frame grabber of note, whereas the new batch of NLE's is tackling HDV sources...which means JVC's HDV product line, that is, until rival manufacturers eventual release competing HDV products....

It may be worth your consideration......

Right...and no, don't have it yet, but that seems to be what the HDV users are recommending.

As an aside, from the perspective of a hobbyist with a much lighter wallet after purchasing the GR-HD1, I mention that the simple tools included with the bundled software DO allow you to export edited files back to the camcorder, I have tried this successfully.

That said, I don't know for sure, but I suspect that the (bundled) editor does not re-encode for simple edits, like cuts and joins. It doesn't indicate either way, except files assemble very quickly, unless there are transformations between the clips, in which case it takes forever to render.

I only used Womble because it's what I had...it doesn't compare with a professional product like Vegas. It will edit directly m2t without re-encoding, does HD, SD, DVD, SVCD, VCD but not DV or AVI.

To S. Criz,

As far as I can tell from my testing, Vegas 5 does not yet support capture from the JVC HD1/10. But vegas 5 can import the ts files, and can output ts. You have to use the free tool CapDVHS for communication with the camera. Or you can use the HD Capture Utility 1.0 that cmes with the camera, although this program does not work very well for me.

Ulead MSP7 with the CaptureHD plugin can capture directly from the camera, making MSP7 the only fully integrated editor so far. But all of these solutions seem to need a fast computer and disk in order not to drop frames, especially at transitions. And MSP7 seems to crash with HD rendering on my systems.

Vegas 5 plus CapDVHS seems to be the best (affordable) soloution so far.

To Tom:

I agree with you about the fabulous image quality from this camera. It is really important to have a fast enough computer and a very high quality (preferably 1280x740 LCD) dispay to experience the full quality of the video. Those who do not have a strong enough system will experience less than optimal image quality.

--Doug

__________________
--Doug

Doug, I use a Toshiba Portable with a WXGA (1440x900) 17 inch LCD display, P4 2.8ghz hyper thread. I think it's probably adequate.

I may have found the money for Vegas 5...just got my JVC retailer to price match.

(There is a very low price on the GR-HD1 right now,.. under two bucks, not saying where, except it's a JVC authorized Web retailer, and also one of the large and reputable brick and mortars, whose name rhymes with "Sweeter.")


I really love this camcorder so far. The robustness and quality is well beyond the fare I've been comparing to, the metal frame, aspherical glass lens, metal gears in the tape transport, and made in Japan. The sturdy construction reminds me of the 35mm SLRs of old.

Tom Roper,

I too have been considering the grhd1 but am somewhat hesitant
due to some of the postings and reviews regarding this camera.

What makes me want to consider it is that even though being on the low end of the HD spectrum (720p vs. 1080i) and not having anything to compare it to, Hdv is the future and sd for all it is worth is now a technology that is Mature.

That said with sony, canon, and others that have adopted JVC's
tech as the basis of future offering it makes the consideration of this unit more viable.

Therefore, how would you rate the "lowlight" capabilities of this unit. I consider lowlight an indoor shoot with one or two 100w overhead lights as illumination. Also, as I shoot outdoor most of the time how would you rate video on cloudy days.

Would appreciate you thoughts.

Thnx,

Foamer

Foamer,

Contrary to the some of the chatter, the low-light performance of the HD1 seems comparable with 3-chip Prosumer DV video cameras. For example it is similar to my Panasonic PV-DV1000. This is not as good as analog camreas but acceptable indoors for many purposes. Here is a link to a frame capture taken inside a dimly lighted solar observatory dome, with back light as well:
http://dboyd.com/Photos_04/BigBear/DVC00027.jpg
Vegas 5 has filters that will help reduce the noise in the image and step up saturation if requried.

My home page also has other examples of HD1 clips and stills:

http://dboyd.com

Near the top of the page there is a clip "Mother's Day" and another called "Alan and Tannya" There there are two "Big Bear" videos (inside), and a bunch of still pictures that you can recognize from the 16:9 format.

The HD1 is a great camera if you have a fast computer.

--Doug Boyd

__________________
--Doug

I think the low light performance is not bad, by your definition of 1 or 2 overhead 100watt lights.

My only objection, is that HD downconverted content has too much moire. If you want to make DVDs, it's better to shoot in DV or SD mode.

On the other hand, Hi-Def viewed native via the component outputs connected to your HDTV is going to knock your socks off. The camera has a little remote control, so you can sit back and operate it like a VCR.

Of course, I can't tell you what to do. I can only tell you that I'm keeping mine.

I'm going to shoot some nature photography type footage in HD. I think one of the tricks to keep from blowing out the highlights, is to use a polarizing filter. It's not essential, but seems to give more exposure latitude. Be sure to calibrate the white balance with the polarizer installed. And shoot on a tripod.

I'm more of a technicrat than an artist. But the potential of this camera has caused me to appreciate the benefit of planning the shot beforehand, and maintaining a consistent theme.

For example, create a nature video but keep the action moving. So I want a sequence of clips, each about the length of time it takes to fully zoom-in, slowly, 2-4 seconds. With the camera on a tripod, begin a combination slow zoom and fractional pan. Each clip ends just before full zoom is reached.

I just solved a problem I was having with combing artifacts and ghosting when panning, by setting the frame on the DV capture software to field order "A."

This one trick pony now does another, excellent DV to --> DVD.

I throw this question out to all,

with regards to the moire/ghosting my primary intent for this camera is to video trains. some stationary some moving at upwards of 60 to 80 mph.

How do you think this camera will do with images like this?

I'm concerned with the flickering effect no being appropiate for this type of work.

any suggestions?

Potentially, the images will be unrivaled. And potentially, it could be a mess. It depends on your ability to make the most of the HD format.

Salient points:

1.) "Flicker" is a catch all phrase for not being able to identify the specific phenomena causing it, whether it's dot crawl on horizontal lines from improper flagging of 30 fps progressive NTSC 2:2 cadence pulldown mode for film flags, or whether it's moire as a consequence of down-rezzing 720p to 480i/p, or whether it's a consequence of camera pans under changing light (variable aperture), or whether it's jittery footage from camera pans made with an excessively fast shutter speed that doesn't properly add some blur to natural motions.

2.) Pertinent to 1.) above, it's incumbent on you to define what your target media will be for distribution. Film? DVD? Tape?

3.) The 720p 30 fps doesn't really lend itself well to film transfers due to the mismatch in 30 fps versus 24 fps, or DVD transfers due to 30 fps progressive 2:2 cadence.

4.) On the other hand, footage shot in DV mode is 60 fields per second (field order A), perfect for the creation of 480i DVD disks and progressive scan playback. But the GR-HD1/10 does not make full use of all its CCD pixels on DV format, and other megapixel DV cameras use more pixels in that mode. But in general, the competing DV cameras remain limited to NTSC 525 lines of resolution, so the benefit of extra CCD pixels is confined to the constraints of enhancing exposure latitude and color fidelity, but not really sharpness.

5.) That's where the conclusion that the JVC GR-HD1/10 is a one trick pony comes from. It excels in the domain as the only consumer choice in the HDTV format. But using what it offers is not a panacea for carelessness or inept photography.

6.) In skilled hands, it is wholly capable of producing stunning HDTV footage, or capable of creating nausea in the hands of a point and shoot enthusiast.

Personally, I think shooting footage of moving trains at high speeds would be a SUPERB undertaking for this camera. It would challenge the user to be creative in exploiting his talent and the HD format. That said, the 30 fps frame rate would be no more of a limitation than that imposed by 24 fps film cameras. Not so much for distribution on a NTSC DVD disk, but FANTASTIC in native 720p high resolution on Windows media format WM9, or DVHS tape.

to Tom Roper,

thanks for the reply but am somewhat confused by your answer.

Basically, you are saying that there would be a limitation in distribution of my material. You state that it would look great in
wm9 or dvhs tape but there in lies the problem.

In order for a format to be successful there must be a wide availability to replay edited material. From what you are saying it is that to downrez to 480i/p the conversion will cause problems with the flickering issue especially fast movement.

In other words, it is not prudent at this time to consider this unit as playback devices need to "catch up to the camera" technology.

Am I wrong? Let me know.

Thanks

Foamer

Foamer, the Hi-Def 720p 30 fps progressive output does not convert well to down-rez'd formats. If you don't want to exploit the advantages of the format, there's no reason to consider it.

For this, and many other reasons, the HD1/10 is a camera for HD only. If SD (downrezed, or whatever) is the end point, don't waste the time and money with this model (Suggestions include the Sony vx2100, and Panasonic DVX100a for SD duties).

I guess the question is this.

It would be great to be on the leading edge of this new revolution in video. SD has matured for sure but we cannot just abandon all our dvd player etc.

In what format (current) can be used to disseminate the final product that everyone can take advantage of to view my material
that will look good now and in the future this cam can grow into?
You say downrezed to dvd is not the way to go but for now what else is there?

Would appreciate input.

Thnx.